Sunday, April 11, 2010

Aussie Pet Mobile!




I'm having so much fun grooming dogs and cats in the Aussie Pet Mobile, that I thought I'd share a photo of it!

I travel around the Tampa Bay area and my boss, Mary Newman, has 3 vans in the franchise.

Call 1-800-PET MOBILE and give your zip code to find an Aussie groomer near you!

Monday, January 25, 2010

Other Breed Cuts




















































Here's a variety of dog cuts!

TOP: Shih Tzu - 1/2" Puppy Cut with a Teddy Bear face; Note the fan tail and ears even with the beard.

# 2 : Yellow Lab shave down

# 3 : Standard Poodle with shaved muzzle and Pop-pom tail. Body is about 1/4" blended into 1/2" legs. She is one of a pair I do - the male has a goatee!

# 4 : Pair of long-haired dachshunds; in winter I leave their hair about 1/4" while in summer I may shave them.

# 5 : Three Cuties! Yorkie on left and the other two are Shih Tzus. All with the popular 1/2" Puppy Cut.

Friday, January 1, 2010

More on Non-Shedding Dogs





This Cocker Spaniel cross shows how their hair grows, and grows and grows.

If left too long, the hair may become extremely matted, the hair on top and under paws (especially on a Cocker I noticed) attract sticky stuff and burrs etc. and the hair around the ears becomes very dirty (often from them falling into their food & eater dishes).

I trimmed this dog into a 1/2" Puppy Cut. The owner wanted the ears full and long so I just trimmed the edges round, but shaved the inside near the ear canal. I pluck any inside hair using ear powder.

For the paws, I use a #40 blade to clean under the paws and scissor the top, rounding them as well.

The standard Cocker cut has a skirt, and I'll explain that grooming trim when I take photos - I have a client with a pair of Cocker Spaniels due to be done soon.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Second Hand Smoke & Pets


I want to share some insight I've learned as a pet groomer. I can always tell if the dog or cat I'm clipping and bathing has an owner that smokes - I can smell it on the animal! (No, this cutie was smoke-free!)

I found an article at http://www.smokefreesociety.org/NewsClip/Pets-1.html
that says: "
A study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology found that dogs in smoking households had a 60 percent greater risk of lung cancer; a different study published in the same journal showed that long-nosed dogs, such as collies or greyhounds, were twice as likely to develop nasal cancer if they lived with smokers.

And in yet another study, vets from Tufts University found that cats whose owners smoked were three times as likely to develop lymphoma, the most common feline cancer."

My husband smoked for 50 years and finally used the nicotine patch from his VA doctor to quit. All because his granddaughter asked him to please stop smoking for his health (her father-in-law developed cancer and died from his smoking habit)

So, if a smoker who owns pets needs a GOOD reason to quit, think of your beloved dog or cat!

Enough said.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Lhasa Apso Cutie!




The small breeds like the Lhasa Apso pictured here are my favorite to clip because they are just so darn cute when done! Some owners request a shave down (leaving about 1/8" of hair) and others like it longer with a 1/2" Puppy Cut. Most ask for the Teddy Bear head look. The muzzle can be clipped shorter if the dog needs it. Only show dogs keep the body hair long.

They are high maintenance - needing to be groomed about every 4 - 6 wks. The hair around their eyes grows quickly and creates problems if not kept short. This breed, like many small ones who grow hair quickly, often develop matting issues. So comb them and keep their grooming appointments on a regular basis for their comfort.

To learn more about the breed, visit http://www.lhasaapso.org

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Winter Care for Horses



With snow already hitting the ground in the northeast and out west, this is a timely article by my friend Ann Swinker, PhD, Extension Equine Specialist, from the Penn State University, State College. (I slightly edited it to fit) The horse above is my half-Arab gelding, Sonny. He's semi-retired in central NJ at Apple Brook Farm. He's looking good for 30 yrs old! Thanks Beth!!

Winter Care for Horses


WATER:
About the worst thing for a horse during the winter months is ice that covers the watering trough or water bucket. Mature horses need about 10 gallons of water a day. Excessively cold water will decrease the horses’ consumption of water. Ideally, water should be maintained at a temperature of 40 degrees F. When the horse drinks less water, feed intake will decrease resulting in less energy being available to maintain body temperature and body weight during the cold months. Reduced feed and water intake could lead to colic and an impacted intestinal tract in the horse.

Heated waterers are one way to assure your horse an ample supply of drinking water. If electric water heaters are used, the water tank should be checked every day to insure that the heater is not shorting out and shocking the horse, which would prevent the horse from drinking.

SHELTER: The horse has two natural defenses against cold, a long hair coat and a layer of fat beneath the skin. The long winter hair coat serves as insulation by reducing the loss of body heat and provides the first line of defense against the cold. Its insulating value is lost when the horse becomes wet and/or is covered with mud. This is why it is important to provide a dry sheltered area in cold, wet weather and regular grooming. In damp weather, be alert for rain rot and other skin problems. If unchecked, rain rot can result in hair loss and irritation to the horse

While horses need shelter from cold winds, rain and snow, it is not necessary to keep them in a closed barn throughout the winter. Horses kept outdoors in the winter with access to a run-in shed that opens away from the normal wind patterns, will generally have fewer respiratory disease problems than horses kept in poorly ventilated, heated barns. With a three-sided shed, the horse can take shelter during a rain or snowstorm and its insulating hair remains dry and fluffed. Horses maintained in an enclosed barn should be exercised regularly, to maintain muscling and health.

Show horses with hair coats that are artificially short should not be turned outside in bitter winter cold without protection of a blanket or windbreak. If you do have a show horse that is housed in a barn during most of the winter, the barn should be adequately ventilated in order to reduce the risk of respiratory disease. Even in cold weather horses frequently prefer to be outdoors. The horse, when given the opportunity, will acclimate to cold temperatures without much difficulty.

NUTRITION: Cold weather is a real stress as the horse generates enough heat to provide body warmth during the coldest of weather. A horse's nutritive needs will be higher when it is minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit, than it will be when the temperatures are around 50 degrees.

Vitamin, mineral and protein requirements will still depend upon the horse’s age and physiological status. The horse should be fed according to body condition. Thin horses should be fed some supplemental grain in addition to good quality hay to assure enough energy to produce warmth, while a fat horse will require little or no increase from their fall diet. Most mature horses that are idle and in good flesh can survive the winter quite well on good quality hay and ample clean water.

Horses will generally consume 1 to 1 ½ pounds of hay per 100 pounds of body weight and if needed ½ to 1½ pounds of grain per 100 lbs of body weight. If a horse is not maintaining good body condition or is performing some work, grain should be added to the diet. If you must supplement your hay with grain, one of the safest of grains to feed is oats. However, corn contains twice as much energy as an equal volume of oats therefore a small amount of corn added to the diet will increase the energy supply. Contrary to popular belief corn does not produce heat; it produces energy that can later be converted to heat. It is the digestion of the hay that quickly produces the heat. However, for the thin horse, corn will provide the energy needed to keep the horse in good body condition and provides the energy needed for work.

Do not overfeed. Overfeeding can cause too much weight gain during the winter, and lead to laminitis and other health problems in the spring.

Vitamin and mineral requirements are a year-round concern. All horses should have access to trace mineralized salt to meet their electrolyte and trace mineral needs. Adequate levels of vitamins are present in sufficient amounts in good quality horse feed, especially in well-preserved green hay. However, if the hay appears brown, weathered and the hay quality is questionable, additional vitamin supplementation may be needed. A commercial vitamin mineral supplement can be used to provide what is missing from the hay.

FINAL NOTES: One important aspect of care that often is neglected is hoof care. Even though you are not regularly riding the horse, the hooves still grow during the winter months. In addition, the horse is traveling on uneven, frozen ground that can crack and break feet. Have the shoes removed and the hooves trimmed before turning the horse out for winter, and have the feet trimmed on a regular basis. This insures that when spring arrives, the horse will have sound hooves that will be capable of holding a shoe. Also, be on the alert for the presence of lice and mites. Parasites, both internal and external, can be heavily implicated by winter.

The important thing is—do not just turn horses out and forget about them. Every day at every feeding, horses should receive at least a visual examination.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Lion Cuts for Cats



This is Blacky. He's a short haired cat who I give a Lion Cut to on a monthly basis. He and his buddy, Trouble (who's a long hair calico), have this done so that the family doesn't have to find new homes for them.


The mom and four young daughters all have allergies to the cat dander. But by shaving the two cats and bathing them once a month, the family has no allergy symptoms!


Both cats took a few times to become accustom to the van and the procedure, but now they are very cooperative.


The Lion Cut has the cat looking like a lion when finished, hence the name. Blacky has shorter hair so the "mane" and tip of tail are not as full as a cat with long hair.


I shave with a #10 in reverse to get as short as possible on these cats, but will also use a #7.


Most cats need a cone-like collar to prevent them from biting me, but cats like Blacky who are just scared not mean, less is better. I'll put the collar on during bathing and drying so the water and warm air don't get on his face.


I'll trim cat's nails and then wrap the paws with vet wrap, which makes them calmer - the "bundling effect." The booties stay on during washing and drying, unless I know that cat won't scratch me.
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I have work gloves handy in case a cat goes into panic mode and shakes all my protections off. I've learned to have a towel handy as well - for covering the cat's face, which calms him immediately, and for accidents on table when the dryer makes them scared and they relieve themselves.
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Most cats don't care for the bath but I've heard some join their owners in the shower! It becomes a health issue if a cat, especially a long haired one, is unable to keep himself groomed. Even if the cat does not receive a Lion Cut, I'll shave a sanitary clip on his behind. Also, I'll shave belly mats if any.
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Flea baths are also another reason I'll have a cat as a client.
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I don't recommend an owner bathing and clipping their own cat - the cat may act up more with the owner than with me in "my territory."