Keep Your Pets Hydrated!

Our Irish Terrier, Woogie, loves to swim in a pool or pond, or take a dip in a rubber tub on a hot day!

Water Tips:

It’s a fact: all life needs water.

Pets need to stay hydrated to stay healthy, but how much and when?

A rule of thumb is that dogs, cats and horses must have fresh water available all day, except after strenuous work. Make sure your pet has its heart rate and respiration back to normal after exercise before offering water.

Monitor the normal amount consumed. If the animal is drinking more than usual (or less) he may be unwell (such as diabetes) and his veterinarian should be contacted.

Playing in water – Dogs and horses are often willing to swim, but be aware of dangers such as rough currents, water menaces such as snakes (alligators in Florida) and thick mud. We know a dog that was killed in the creek after a bad storm; she wasn’t aware of the sudden strong current. For horses, thick mud will suck the shoes off, and may cause leg injuries or a fall. In Florida, alligators have been known to eat small dogs!

Dogs & Cats

They drink more when eating dry food over canned.

They like cold water but don’t overdo putting ice cubes in the water bowl.

It’s hard to monitor intake if using a pet water fountain.

Horses

They can drink from 10-25 gallons a day. According to Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, a horse needs at least a gallon of water per 100 lbs of body weight. For your average horse, this equals 10 gallons a day. Water requirements vary greatly according to the weather and the level of work that the horse is doing. For instance, if your horse is exercising in hot, humid weather, he may need 2-4 times the minimum amount.

At rest, in a stall, offer two buckets, filling them fresh in the morning and evening; more changing/refilling when a hot day.

Outside with turn-out, keep the water trough clean and full. In hot weather, change water when needed so it’s not too warm to drink. During a freeze, make sure no ice forms.

Offer free-choice salt blocks to encourage drinking water.

More Tips from Tufts University:

Getting your horse to drink more

• The first, and most important thing, is to make sure that your horse has continual access to water!
• Horses tend to drink less water in the winter if the water is cold. Studies have shown that horses will drink more water if it is warm or tepid. So, get yourself a water heater, and don't expect your horse to drink the icy cold water!
• Some horses are very picky about 'foreign' water. Tips from experienced competitors include bringing enough water from home, and getting your horse used to drinking flavored water. Many horses enjoy water flavored with apple juice.
• Horses will drink more when it is held up to them after and during competition.
• Try to offer your horse water in a quiet area, where he will not be disturbed by all the action around him.
• One wet-down flake of hay can absorb 1-2 gallons of water. If you feed your horse well-soaked hay, you can make a real impact on his fluid consumption. Endurance riders take advantage of this by feeding horses soaked hay before long rides.

Treating a horse's fluid and electrolyte losses after competition

• Horses that have done short, extreme bursts of exercise need to be carefully cooled down, and should be given frequent, small sips of water.
• Horses that have done long, moderate exercise (such as endurance horses), should be allowed to drink water during and immediately after competition.
• Although electrolyte solutions are not the best way to deliver electrolytes on a daily basis, they are appropriate after competition. As a matter of fact, your horse will be much more likely to drink an electrolyte solution during or after competition, rather than before. However, your horse does need water, not just electrolytes.
• Horses that are moderately to severely dehydrated need veterinary attention. The attending veterinarian will treat with intravenous fluids and fluids given with a nasogastric tube.

Visit http://www.tufts.edu/vet/sports/dehydration.html to learn more.

Prepare for your Pets/Horses in Case of Disasters

This is a link to an excellent article about ensuring the welfare of your pets and horses and being prepared if faced with any type of disaster. It pertains to animal owners across the country with their regional concerns: hurricanes, fires, toxic spills etc. Don't wait until a disaster happens to make a plan!

http://www.thehorse.com/ViewArticle.aspx?ID=18503

Horses That Won't Sweat

Horses That Won't Sweat

From Certified Horseman's Assoc. Newsletter

"Hey man, no sweat!" This informal reply generally means "don't worry about it". But when used to describe a non-sweating horse it's reason for worry.

Horses (and humans) cool their bodies by sweating. When a horse is exercising or overheated the brain detects the rise in body temperature. Signals are sent to the sweat glands, which begin to secrete moisture. The evaporation of this moisture helps the horse feel cooler.

Keeping the brain and internal organs from over-heating is the primary function of sweating. Blood that is becoming hot travels out from the core of the body and toward the skin. Energy needed to produce sweat is pulled from the blood in the form of heat, which cools the blood and protects the vital organs.

Horses with anhidrosis cannot sweat, so they risk organ failure, which can lead to death. While most anhidrosis cases are concentrated in hot and humid areas (Gulf Coast states), it can occur anywhere. It can be mild to severe.

Some horses who suffer from anhidrosis many still exhibit small amounts of sweat, but not enough to cool their bodies. While a lack of sweat is the most obvious symptom, others include panting and a body temperature greater than 102° F. (38.8 ° C.). Dry skin and loss of hair may also be noticed.

No one knows what triggers anhidrosis. Moving a horse from a cool climate to a hot, humid one may trigger the condition. Other horses may stop sweating when the sweat glands are overly stimulated. A genetic link may also be possible – related horses may exhibit anhidrosis. Stress can be another contributing factor.

Horses with anhidrosis must be managed. The best thing for them is to move to a cooler climate. There is no cure. If moving to a cooler climate is not possible, there are steps that can be taken to give the non-sweating horse some relief.

Providing the horse with fans and misters can help. If the horse is kept outside, shade must be available and hosing him with cool water during the heat of the day is advised. Exercise and training should be done early in the morning – before the sun rises, or late in the evening. These horses should not perform during the heat of the day.

There are nutritional supplements on the market that are advertised for the anhidrotic horse. No controlled studies have been conducted to prove their effectiveness. Research at the University of Florida has shown one supplement, One AC, having some benefit.

Many owners of anhidrotic horses swear dark beer helps. Other treatments which have been tried are electrolyte supplementation, a treatment with a drug called methy dopa, using thyroid supplementation and acupuncture. None of these methods have been proven to work consistently and some have side effects.

Don't take "no sweat" lightly. A dry horse in hot, humid conditions is a sick horse and immediate care is needed.

Visit CHA at www.CHA-ahse.org

Variety of Breeds

The German Shepard (top photo) and Golden Retriever (second photo) are usually groomed using the furminating process - special shampoo & cream rinse that helps to loosen the dead hair and then furminator combs remove the excess. It's best to do this on a regular basis - about every 6 weeks.

The Mini Schnauzer (on couch with Golden) also gets groomed every 6 weeks. His body is shaved, and his head is trimmed to maintain his bushy beard and eyebrows.

The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel (third photo) and the Papillon Spaniel (fourth photo) are also furminated. Like all dogs with long hair on the legs and ears, knots may form and will have to be combed out or snipped.

Australian Shepards and collie types can be furminated or given a long shave down like the one in the last photo. Labradors and Chows sometimes benefit from a shave down, too.

All breeds of dogs should have their ears, nails and teeth checked on a regular basis, such as once or twice a month. Keep an eye out for fleas, unusual skin conditions and lumps that grow.

Lion Cuts

Lion Cuts are popular for cats when it is a long-haired variety and has become matted. Also, the short-haired cat like the one above may need a shave down because its humans are allergic to the pet dander - shaving and bathing on a monthly basis seems to help reduce the allergy symptoms.

Dogs, such as a Pomeranian or a Chow like the one above, also benefit from a Lion Cut if they have skin problems, fleas or other issues. With their dense double coat, a shave down is the only way to clip them, unlike a 1/2" Puppy Cut that can be done on a silky hair dog like a Yorkie.

Lion Cuts typically means the pet is shaved from behind the ears to the base of the tail, and down the leg to the first joint. Sometimes, the neck hair is left long, like a mane of a lion, and other times the hair is thinned and trimmed to blend into the rest of the body. The tail of the cat is often shaved leaving just a tuft at the end.

An aloe creme rinse makes a great addition after the pet's bath, making the skin less itchy and the coat feeling smooth. The best reason though, is the heavenly smell of aloe, especially if the pet sleeps with you!