Halloween Pet Safety Tips

(From Pedigree - allowed to share)

Children milling about giggling happily, lots of sweets to eat, brightly lit jack-o-lanterns, and visitors stopping by all evening long—to people (and kids, especially) Halloween can be a fun time of year. But to your family's dog, those same conditions can create a very different atmosphere: one of anxiety and alienation. To your dog, this special night is clearly not normal, and how he reacts to these unusual circumstances may depend on how well you prep him.
Here are a few Halloween safety tips that can help assure a pleasant and incident-free night in which all the scary stuff is in the name of good fun for everyone, including your dog:

• Exercise your dog before party guests and trick-or-treaters are expected to arrive. After 30 minutes of walking or playing, most dogs will be more relaxed or ready to take a nap. And, as every dog owner knows, a tired dog is a well-behaved dog.
• Give him some space. If the arrival of party guests makes your dog excitable, give him a break in his crate or in a quiet room with a familiar doggie bed or blanket. Allow your pooch to join the festivities after the initial commotion has subsided.
• Provide "door bell" training. Train your dog to sit quietly near the front door when the doorbell rings. Practice every day to reinforce the behavior. A dog that barks and jumps up on guests is usually not appreciated. And, because this is Halloween, you can expect the doorbell to be ringing quite a lot.
• Distract your dog with new toys. Just before your party guests arrive and the skeletons, devils, pirates, and princesses start ringing your doorbell, give your dog some fun new toys to play with. Long-lasting chew toys are nearly indestructible and will keep him occupied for a long period.
• Never leave your dog alone with small children. No matter how much you trust your dog, make sure an adult is always in the room when small children visit your home. And remember, even a child that your dog knows well can appear strange and threatening when dressed in a Halloween costume.
• Be strict with holiday sweets. Avoid giving your dog Halloween candy, cookies, cakes, and chocolate. These sweets can trigger life-threatening illnesses in dogs. Don't overdo the dog treats either. There's nothing festive about a dog that has diarrhea.
• Keep an eye on candles. Lighted candles may make jack-o-lanterns glow radiantly, but they should never be left unattended—especially if they're at your dog's eye level. A wagging tail or a swat of a paw, and candles and hot wax can quickly become disastrous.

By following these simple tips, the "boos" in your Halloween will lead to smiles and laughter rather than worries about your dog's safety, comfort, and anxiety.

Clipping Your Horse

When clipping a horse, the preparation is as important as the clipping itself. Make sure you have the proper clipper size for the job and that it is in good working order. Bathe the horse beforehand and use a spray on conditioner after the final rinse to create a sleek coat and reduce static. The horse should be completely dry before attempting to clip.
Supplies you should have handy:

• Large clipper made for the body with a #10 blade attached- the wider the blade the less swipes will be needed, new blades are best or newly sharpened ones
• Smaller clipper with higher numbered blades, such as #15 for the head and #30 for inside the ears and around the muzzle
• Rubbing alcohol or blade spray- use to cool the blades
• Clipper oil- for the designated spots on the clipper and to reduce friction of the blade
• Soft brush
• Towel

Prepare a safe, clutter-free area for the horse to be cross-tied or held, preferably where there is no wind. Make sure the extension cord will not be in the way of the horse during clipping. Have a broom, shovel and trash can available for the loose hair clipped. You may need an assistant with treats if you are unsure how the horse will react. A twitch may also be necessary.

There are several types of patterns such as Trace Clip, Blanket Clip or Hunter Clip. Choose one and use a chalk to outline the edges, or opt for a full body clip. Start at the least sensitive area such as the horse’s shoulder. Clip against the growth of the hair using consistent pressure. To avoid lines and for an even cut, clip in overlapping rows and make sure the skin is stretched. You may want to clip the outline of the pattern first and then clip the interior. Cool the blade about every ten minutes, or change the blade to avoid burning the horse. Use the oil at the same time to keep the clipper motor running smoothly.

Since clipping may take a couple hours or more depending on the size of the horse, the thickness of the coat and the behavior, plan to take a break about halfway through to allow the horse to stretch its legs or relieve itself. Hand walking is suggested rather than being placed in a stall to avoid the horse from rolling. Sweep up the loose hair and then continue.

Once the body is finished, change to a smaller clipper with the appropriate blade for the legs, face and ears. Brush the body and wipe down with a towel. Check for any touch-ups that may be needed by holding the horse in the sunlight.

Finally, clean the clippers and blades so they are prepared for the next clipping job. Blanket the horse according to the temperature even if it is stabled inside.

Professional Horse Grooms Site

Follow these links to an informative site on grooming horses!

http://www.proequinegrooms.com/index.php/tips/grooming/

http://www.proequinegrooms.com/index.php/tips/grooming/the-20-minute-summer-spruce-up-for-your-horse/

http://www.proequinegrooms.com/index.php/tips/grooming/how-often-should-you-bathe-your-horse/

http://www.proequinegrooms.com/index.php/tips/grooming/roaching-manes/

http://www.proequinegrooms.com/index.php/tips/grooming/post-clipping-tips-and-tricks/

Check the site; they have many more in archives!

Happy Trails!

Clipping & Bathing Cats!

Cats may need bathing for a number of reasons: shedding, flea infestation, family allergies or poor coat with matted fur. The cat may need to be shaved down with a Lion Cut as well. I shave from behind the ears to the first joint on each leg and to the end of the tail leaving a small fluffy tip. If they are long haired then they'll have a lion mane and the paws will have fluffy boots.

If no Lion Cut is needed, I bath with a de-shedding shampoo.

Shaving and bathing will give the cat healthier skin and a chance to grow a fresh new coat. The fleas, matts and dead hair will be gone and the cat will be much happier.

If there are allergies to the cat dander in the family, this may need to be done monthly. Otherwise, the cat may need this grooming every 2-4 months with the owner brushing in between.

Before the bath, I clean the ears and clip the nails. I shave most of the hair using blades that can range from a #10 (close to the skin) to a #5 (leaves a little fuzz) with the most common being #7. Then I secure an E-collar for the bathing and drying to protect the cat's face. I wrap the cat's paws after clipping nails with vet wrap - the bundling effect helps calm them and if they try to scratch me, I'm protected. I try not to put the wraps and collar on before the bath unless I feel the cat needs it.

In my mobile van, the cat does not sit in water; the shampoo/water mix is squirted from a bottle and massaged into the skin. The cat is rinsed off with a small hose, using warm water even in the summer. If the cat panics and scrambles around while leashed in the tub, I talk soothingly, shut everything down and place a small towel over the E-collar. Being covered usually calms them. Then I'll finish the rinsing.

After towel drying, I use a blow dryer set on low leaving the towel over the head if it makes the cat calmer. Sometimes the cat will begin to purr while I'm drying him, and then I'll take off the booty wraps and collar. I'll finish with a final shave to even out the coat.

I love how they strut when I return them to their house!

Equine Heat Stress and Heat Stroke

From the CHA (Certified Horsemanship Association) July Newsletter
Visit www.CHA-ahse.org

Equine Heat Stress and Heat Stroke
 

Summer time! And the heat is rising. In the winter we look forward to summer months of intense equine activity. But are we ready for the heat and humidity?

Prevention is the key to riding in the heat. Horses must be in condition and riders should know the signs of heat stress and heat stroke - and how to react. Water should be offered often, even during exercise. Horses are cooled by sweating and respiration. The evaporation of sweat cools the body. If the day is humid, regardless of the temperature, sweat will not evaporate. If the humidity is high there can be significant losses in water and electrolytes at a temperature of 72 degrees, resulting in dehydration. In extreme dry heat horses can quickly become dehydrated due to loss of fluids and electrolytes through sweat.

Respiration is commonly referred to as breathing. A puffing horse is under stress and trying to cool his body. Moisture is lost during the respiration process. The normal respiration rate of an adult horse at rest is 8-16 breaths per minute. Know what is normal for your horse.

Heat stress usually does not require veterinarian intervention, but the horse must be attended. The most commonly observed signs of heat stress are profuse sweating, rapid breathing and a rapid heart rate. When a horse is showing signs of heat stress, stop all work and begin the cooling procedure.

Airflow is important to lowering the body temperature, so refrain from returning him to his stall. Hand walking, preferably in the shade, is one option. If you have access to fans this will help cool his body. Rinse the horse off with cool, not cold, water. Small amounts of water should be given at frequent intervals. Hot horses can colic if allowed to drink a large quantity of water all at once.

Heat stress can quickly become heat stroke; a life threatening condition. A veterinarian needs to be called! The symptoms of heat stroke are dry, hot skin; high pulse (normal pulse rate is 36-42 beats per minute), high respiratory rate and a high temperature. A temperature of 104 degrees for any length of time is a life threatening condition. The average normal temperature of an adult horse at rest is 100 degrees Fahrenheit – 38 degrees Celsius.

While waiting for the veterinarian to arrive, move the horse to a shady area with ventilation, provided by wind or fans. Work on lowering the internal temperature of the horse. Begin applying repeated applications of water on the neck, chest, shoulders, and legs. The water must flow over these areas and run off in order to remove the built up heat. Walk the horse to help dissipate heat through airflow and keep good blood circulation to and from the muscle. Do not throw a wet towel over the head and neck, as it acts as insulation.

Offer the horse sips of water at frequent intervals. Once the veterinarian arrives she will start electrolyte and fluid replacement treatment. There is a condition that horses may develop called anhidrosis - the inability to produce sweat. The cause is still under research, but one theory is the gradual degeneration of the sweat glands due to continued stimulation by a hot humid climate. Many times when these horses are relocated to a cooler region their ability to sweat returns, but these horses are at a higher risk of heat stroke and must be monitored closely.

So, enjoy the summer with your horse, but be aware of your horse’s comfort level. Stop, take a break, and relish the quiet time with your companion.

For information about caring for and feeding horses take the online course “Nutrition for Performance Horses” taught by Eleanor Blazer. Go to www.horsecoursesonline.com for more information and earn CHA discounts on continuing education credit hours for your certification renewal. Visit Eleanor's web site at www.thewayofhorses.com

Summer Activities with Your Dog

Summer is a great time to take your dog hiking, swimming, fishing and even boating! But remember they need to stay hydrated, too. Our son, Josh, loves to hike the Appalachian Trail and recently took his German Shepherd, Mauser, The dog carried a pack as well and had the water bottles in it! Even though Mauser hikes often with Josh and Bre, after two days, the rocky terrain tore up his paws so he had to head home early.

If you own a pool, your dog will often join you for a cool splash. In fact, it's best to make sure your new dog or puppy is familiar with where the steps are located in case the pet falls in. He could doggy paddle to exhaustion if not aware where to exit the pool. If there is no large pool available, a small one will do!

Great Links for Animal Lovers!

Here are some interesting, educational and fun websites for animal lovers:

http://dawgbusiness.blogspot.com/2013/05/if-i-only-knew-101-essential-tips-you.html

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/

http://www.petcaregt.com/blog/

http://www.dog-paw-print.com/

http://www.morganhorse.com/youth/activities/

http://aqha.com/Youth.aspx

http://www.pedigree.com/All-Things-Dog/Article-Library/results.aspx?Category=Adult&SubCategory=Beauty+%26+Grooming